Since I last wrote in Zanzibar we have done heaps!!
We spent 4 nights in Zanzibar, 2 at the beach which was absolute paradise - white sand, perfect sea, beautiful weather etc...
We then got a boat back to Dar and drove all the way to Malawi where we spent 6 nights camping at 3 different beaches on the lake (3rd largest in Africa). From there we drove via Lilongwe (capital) into Zambia and into Zimbabwe at Kariba to spend 2 nights on house boats (luxury in comparison - hot showers and a bed and a cook!) on Lake Kariba. Then back into Zambia to Livingstone (one side of Victoria Falls) and then into Zimbabwe again to the town of Victoria Falls where we have just spent 3 nights. Today we are going to Botswana...
Highlights for last 3 weeks
- Going through the border into Tanzania and teh official not asking me for the usual US$55 fee for a visa - looking at the monet being thrown in a drawer, I figured it was all a big scam anyway so I hung onto the cash - everyone else in the party paid. Then about 10km down the road, just as I was revealing my good fortune to my truck-mates, we were chased and caught by a car with a man leaning out of it waving a bit of paper at us who we recognised as the official at the border. Heart in my mouth and my $55 at the ready we slowed and stopped as he approached our driver and said 'You forgot yoru receipt'. It was made out in full for the whole group as if everyone had paid and oddly enough it was made out in my name! So I did pay and I have the piece of paper to prove it!
- The pure white sand beach in Zanzibar - absolutely perfect.
- Changing money at the border between Tanzania and Malawi. I got the job of changing the money for the whole 20 of us. It was mayhem - everyoneof the crowd of local dealers surrounded me trying to push wads of money into my handsand at the same timeall trying to rip me off by giving me a crap rate (so I held an auction from the safety of the truck for the best rate), short changing me , giving me old notes (we had no idea which ones were valid), saying they had no change in small notes once they had counted out the bulk of the notes etc. etc. After counting and recounting several times we finally handed over our cash and we succeeded - they didnt rip us off - must have been all those years of bank training!
- Snorkelling off Kande beach in Lake Malawi - there were so many fish and so many different types. Apparenty 80% of freshwater aquarium fish come from Lake Malawi.
- 2 days of luxury and excellent food surrounded by hippos and crocodiles on Lake Kariba.
- White water rafting down the Zambezi - rapids 4 to 19 over a distance of 25km.We flipped our raft over twice and were just a bit(?) scaredbut we survived unhurt - although a few of us managed to lower the level of the river by drinking huge amounts of it.
- Victoria Falls. Despite this being low water time of year it was still an immense amount of water falling over 100m.
- and surprisingly after driving for 2 long days through Zambia where we hardly saw another person or vehicle on the Trans Africa Highway we hit the outskirts of the scruffy capital Lusaka and suddenly came across the most modern shopping centre ever. Paradise. It was unreal.
Low Points
- Being ill for about a week - but I am fully recovered now.
- Forgetting that my watch was no longer waterproof and wearing it in the sea in Zanzibar. I bought a new Casio for £25 at that shopping centre in Zambia.
It doesnt seem like Xmas here. in fact I forgot it was December until I saw a shop assistant wearing a Happy Xmas hat. Despite moving on to areas where there are more Christians and less muslims there are very few Xmas decorations (but there are a few Xmas trees).
Happy Xmas and New Year to You All - Did I mention how hot it is here...?
Best Wishes
Luv
Pete
Wednesday 20 December 2000
Tuesday 28 November 2000
WHERE 1 - Zanzibar, Tanzania
Hi Everyone
Just a couple of months ago I was employed as a bank manager and now I am ... an unemployed un-bank manager and loving it...
I have been having agreat time and have done loadsa stuff. I am currently in an aircon internet cafe in Zanzibar (just off the Tanzanian coast) and it is roasting hot here and there is a severe water shortage - so maybe those of you in UK should feel lucky that you have plenty of ice around at the moment cos we will soon be having to drink chemically trested meddy water (again). It has not been all sun, sun, sun since we left - once in the high ground around Lake Victoria there was a lot of rain and also in Ngorongoro Crater it rained for 24 hours which is not good news as we are camping!
We left Nairobi (Kenya) about 2 weeks ago - we being me plus 21 other people I didn't know - on a truck. Of the group most are Brits and Aussies with a few Kiwis, 2 Danes and a Canadian. We have all got on well so far with a couple of exceptions. 14 are doing the full 9 weeks to Cape Town and 6 are stopping after 5 weeks when we get to Victoria Falls (those with jobs!!!) and 4 new people joing for the last month. The truck is fairly big and comfy although we are at capacity so there is not a lot of room - and we have done some long driving days...
We started in Nairobe on 15/11 and we travelled up to Lake Nakuru, crossing into Tanzania on 19/11 and going to Musoma on Lake Victoria, through the Serengeti to Ngorongoro crater, onto Arusha and then to Mount Kilimanjaro followed by a long drive to Dar (Es Salaam) and by ferry to Zanzibar. En route we went to several national parks in Kenya and Tanzania and we have seen huge nos and variety of game inc.giraffe, elephant, lion, leopard, water buffalo, rhino (black and white), hyena, hippo, zebra, various gazelle and antelope, vultures, eagles etc etc - the only major animal we haven't seen is cheetah.
Highlights so far include:
- Watching (from less than 10 metres away) a herd of 100+ water buffalo as they approached a pride of 8 lions who were resting under a tree. Over about 30 mins the buffalo got closer and closer until they were about 10-15 metres away - the tension was unbelieveable - neither side wanting to yield but the buffalo were certainly forcing the issue. Eventually the male lion ran off with a couple of lionesses and cubs, leaving 2 lionesses to guard their rear for 30 seconds or so before the buffalos charged and won the day - no injuries to report (human or animal).
- millions of flamingos (and a few pelicans) on Lake Nakuru - the whole lake was simply pink.
- thousand and thousands of blue wilderbeast (gnu) sweeping majesticaly across the plains of the Serengeti (not as seen from a Torquay hotel bedroom window in Faulty Towers).
- the great rift valley 6,500kms long - but we didnt see all of it.
- watching sunset and sunrise from (opposite sides of) the same tiny outcrop on Lake Victoria.
- the view across Ngorongoro crater (an extinct volcane crater 25km wide and full of wild game)
- climbing up to base camp of Mount Kilimanjaro
- swimming in the sea at Dar - warmer than any shower we have had
- the slushies in the beach-bar at Dar (I have no idea what was in them butthey were very cold and so we drunk loads and went to bed at 3am.
Downsides include
- having to get up at 6am to make breakfast after having drunk slushies in the bar at Dar... and thinking... why did we do that.
- 24-hours in the rain at Ngorongoro crater, everything was wet through.
- Arusha market - buying 15kg of fruit and veg in an atmosphere only slightly less threatening than a war-zone - one of our guides had here pocket slahed with a knife (and also her leg which was cunningly hidden behind her pocket. I was just glad to get out intact.
- the truck getting stuck in the Serengeti - tehn the rescue truck got stuck - we were knee deep in muddy water trying hopelessly to push a 13 tonne truck out of very soft mud whilst being surrounded by wild animals. No we didnt manage it but we didnt get eaten either and eventually got pulled out by a JCB. Actually it was fun.
- the lack of hot water at most places we visited and the lack of any water at some - I guess we all smell the same amount.
We have 4 days on Zanzibar for snorkelling and sunbathing - then back to Dar and onto Malawi. Looking forward to it...
Bye for now
Lots of Luv
Pete
Just a couple of months ago I was employed as a bank manager and now I am ... an unemployed un-bank manager and loving it...
I have been having agreat time and have done loadsa stuff. I am currently in an aircon internet cafe in Zanzibar (just off the Tanzanian coast) and it is roasting hot here and there is a severe water shortage - so maybe those of you in UK should feel lucky that you have plenty of ice around at the moment cos we will soon be having to drink chemically trested meddy water (again). It has not been all sun, sun, sun since we left - once in the high ground around Lake Victoria there was a lot of rain and also in Ngorongoro Crater it rained for 24 hours which is not good news as we are camping!
We left Nairobi (Kenya) about 2 weeks ago - we being me plus 21 other people I didn't know - on a truck. Of the group most are Brits and Aussies with a few Kiwis, 2 Danes and a Canadian. We have all got on well so far with a couple of exceptions. 14 are doing the full 9 weeks to Cape Town and 6 are stopping after 5 weeks when we get to Victoria Falls (those with jobs!!!) and 4 new people joing for the last month. The truck is fairly big and comfy although we are at capacity so there is not a lot of room - and we have done some long driving days...
We started in Nairobe on 15/11 and we travelled up to Lake Nakuru, crossing into Tanzania on 19/11 and going to Musoma on Lake Victoria, through the Serengeti to Ngorongoro crater, onto Arusha and then to Mount Kilimanjaro followed by a long drive to Dar (Es Salaam) and by ferry to Zanzibar. En route we went to several national parks in Kenya and Tanzania and we have seen huge nos and variety of game inc.giraffe, elephant, lion, leopard, water buffalo, rhino (black and white), hyena, hippo, zebra, various gazelle and antelope, vultures, eagles etc etc - the only major animal we haven't seen is cheetah.
Highlights so far include:
- Watching (from less than 10 metres away) a herd of 100+ water buffalo as they approached a pride of 8 lions who were resting under a tree. Over about 30 mins the buffalo got closer and closer until they were about 10-15 metres away - the tension was unbelieveable - neither side wanting to yield but the buffalo were certainly forcing the issue. Eventually the male lion ran off with a couple of lionesses and cubs, leaving 2 lionesses to guard their rear for 30 seconds or so before the buffalos charged and won the day - no injuries to report (human or animal).
- millions of flamingos (and a few pelicans) on Lake Nakuru - the whole lake was simply pink.
- thousand and thousands of blue wilderbeast (gnu) sweeping majesticaly across the plains of the Serengeti (not as seen from a Torquay hotel bedroom window in Faulty Towers).
- the great rift valley 6,500kms long - but we didnt see all of it.
- watching sunset and sunrise from (opposite sides of) the same tiny outcrop on Lake Victoria.
- the view across Ngorongoro crater (an extinct volcane crater 25km wide and full of wild game)
- climbing up to base camp of Mount Kilimanjaro
- swimming in the sea at Dar - warmer than any shower we have had
- the slushies in the beach-bar at Dar (I have no idea what was in them butthey were very cold and so we drunk loads and went to bed at 3am.
Downsides include
- having to get up at 6am to make breakfast after having drunk slushies in the bar at Dar... and thinking... why did we do that.
- 24-hours in the rain at Ngorongoro crater, everything was wet through.
- Arusha market - buying 15kg of fruit and veg in an atmosphere only slightly less threatening than a war-zone - one of our guides had here pocket slahed with a knife (and also her leg which was cunningly hidden behind her pocket. I was just glad to get out intact.
- the truck getting stuck in the Serengeti - tehn the rescue truck got stuck - we were knee deep in muddy water trying hopelessly to push a 13 tonne truck out of very soft mud whilst being surrounded by wild animals. No we didnt manage it but we didnt get eaten either and eventually got pulled out by a JCB. Actually it was fun.
- the lack of hot water at most places we visited and the lack of any water at some - I guess we all smell the same amount.
We have 4 days on Zanzibar for snorkelling and sunbathing - then back to Dar and onto Malawi. Looking forward to it...
Bye for now
Lots of Luv
Pete
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